Six Contemporary Aotearoa designers making waves in sustainable and design-forward fashion
Valve skirt/dress paired with Rachel Mills Geraldine Bralette in Black | Macy Andres
By Macy Andres
The milieu of fashion design in Aotearoa has substantially changed in the past decade. The cancellation of 2024’s New Zealand Fashion Week, and the revolving door of arts cuts and firm closures, have hung a thick fog over the future of the industry. Our collective conceptions of fashion – what it is, and what it should demand from the mind, body and environment – have shallowed in tandem with a sartorial economy increasingly focused on breaking a profit, at the expense of material (and moral) integrity.
Many of us have grown estranged from the supply chains that piece together our garments. Our clothing and the tastes that govern them have become for some an impersonal matter; beholden to trend cycles with ever-shortening expiry dates. This prospect seems discouraging, but as the saying goes: hardship often breeds the greatest artistic feats. So, in this spirit of resurrection (and the avoidance of our holiday-spurred impulse to spend), I’ve compiled a list of my current favourite voices in New Zealand design; in the hopes that we can all rage against the fast fashion machine, in style.
Wixii
Anyone who knows me personally has witnessed the scale of Wixii’s monopoly over my wardrobe. Heralded by mother-daughter design duo, Shelley and Georgia Hembrow, Wixii is both a domestic and international leader in Earth-focused fashion. Their past and present collections feature minimal silhouettes constructed from organic silk, cashmere, and cotton blends; assembled in collaboration with a select few family textilers. Each piece, designed in-house, is made with the wearer in mind – intended to showcase the body, as much as the body showcases the clothing.
I’m particularly besotted with the Wha Silk Top – a piece exemplary of Wixii’s versatile nature. It can be worn with its exposed abacus panel facing either front or back. Dynamism is baked into every clothing article: skirts can be worn as tops, and ‘front’ can turn into ‘back’. There are no rules, only suggestions. One of my favourite pieces for such experimenting is the Gloria dress, which features a ruched derrière and adjustable side seams for a varied hem height (they no longer make this style, but if you’re lucky, you may be able to source one through Designer Wardrobe, like I did!)
Their brick-and-mortar location is also host to an expansive collection of considered vintage. Some of my most prized possessions have been discovered here – from a Japanese vintage houndstooth mini skirt; to a handmade floral, draped silk singlet. They regularly host sizable sample sales, where both new and archival designs are put on sale at a hefty discount. It is truly a label for the modern New Zealander, and I am already lovesick over their newest, sun-fuelled collection.
Rachel Mills
I first became acquainted with Auckland-based label, Rachel Mills, at the beginning of this year, when I spotted someone sporting the Geraldine Bralette in black. From that moment on, I was enamoured – I snapped one up in my size, and the wearer and I became fast friends.
Integrous materials, responsibly sourced and carefully crafted to order in a bid to minimise waste, are a non-negotiable for RM; which is run by its namesake, Rachel Mills and her mother, Adrienne (I’m beginning to detect a mother-daughter pattern here). Their oeuvre is that of dynamic silhouettes and flattering fits, all of which are hand-assembled with responsibly sourced fabrics in their Mt Eden garment house.
Geraldine Bralette in Black styled with Frazier Valve skirt/dress | Macy Andres
As a standout piece, the Geraldine can be donned in more ways than I can count on my fingers. I’ve styled it over the top of a casual bandeau to showcase its wide, scooped neckline; I’ve paired it with a ruffled singlet to suggest an almost crimped collar; I’ve worn it as an extra layer over and under various tees and tops; and I’ve even arranged and tucked a Christian Dior floral square scarf under its hem. It is truly a piece made for wear (with flair) – as are all of Rachel Mills’ designs.
They have just released a new swimwear line in anticipation of summer’s arrival — I love the inclusion of pieces in ochre and a steely blue. It’s but another addition to their impressive offering of wardrobe staples. The next piece I hope to come by is the Jack Cami Maxi Dress in Black (which can also be made in White). The subtle drop waist and jersey bodice makes for an incredibly flattering silhouette, and the waist tie proffers ample opportunity for personalisation. I imagine donning it alongside a headscarf or wide-brimmed hat during the day; or my favourite Crushes Vintage pointed-toe boots and Wixii Cashmere Sleeves in black at night.
Gloria
Gloria is a project eponymous of designer, Kristine Crabb’s, grandmother. It is a sartorial exploration of the qualities she was known and loved for: curiosity and enduring grace. With Crabb at the helm, Gloria walks the delicate line between old-world charm and new-age sensuality. Everything she designs – whether it be an intricately draped silken gown, or a pillowcase slip – doesn’t shout sex, but whispers.
Gloria’s designs are characterised by vibrant silks, lace, thick wool blends and specialty-woven cotton. The Madonna Dress in Chantelle Ivory is an apt example of Gloria’s intentional use of textiles, in this case, a custom geometric lace, to flesh out a simpler silhouette. The bulk of their pieces stray from the overly embellished or heavily patterned and rely on construction to do the talking. A selection of garments I particularly love include the Les Bien Jacket in Black, which despite its wool composition, maintains the brand’s distinct air of classic sensuality; the Madonna Dress in Black, a modern nod to the classic frocks of the mid-20th century (I adore that it can be worn with sleeves long or short, and front or back!); and the Raspberry Organza scrunchie, an incredibly fun and elegant take on the popular accessory.
Gloria scrunchies at UNDERLENA Pōneke | Macy Andres
At a recent visit to UNDERLENA’s showroom in Pōneke Wellington, a friend and I splurged on a pair of matching scrunchies for our Summer exploits. I eagerly await Gloria’s next steps (which seem to trod beyond the realm of clothing and into various homewares – check out their Silk Pillowcases), as the label lays its roots in its Ponsonby showroom.
Caitlin Snell
Hope Draped Dress | Caitlin Snell
Caitlin Snell’s accessories have been a prominent fixture on the heads of clued-in Kiwis since the label’s launch in 2020. Identifiable by her now-signature satin ribbon and bow motifs, Caitlin Snell (designer/namesake) has used her prowess in practical design to create feminine, playful-chic adornments (hair bows, headbands, belts, bags) that can be worn from office cahoots to evening cocktails.
This past month saw their first foray into ready-to-wear clothing – and, oh, has Snell mastered the art of an entrance. The Maiden Collection consists of a small selection of one-off pieces. Her classic bows are fashioned into various tops (the Lola, Eva, and Izzy); ribbons, adorned to beautifully draped satin dresses and blouses; and flowers, imagined as hair clips and appliqués on gingham skirts.
My two favourite garments appear in the provided photographs: the Hope Draped Dress and Elsbeth Draped Top. Both are as enduringly elegant as they are youthful. They are constructed from natural, deadstock fibres in the name of waste minimisation – which makes Caitlin Snell yet another talented, green-thumbed seamstress to emerge from within Aotearoa’s COVID-spurred creative bubble.
Loclaire
Celeste Top in White | Loclaire
“Nothing good comes without cost” has been a popular aphorism for centuries. Certainly, in the fashion world, it can seem like gospel; but brands like Loclaire stand to prove otherwise. Operated out of/designed in Auckland since its launch in 2019, Loclaire and its founders, Frances Lowe and Adi Komari, have dedicated their craft to the propagation of equally sustainable and stylish dressmaking.
Plankton Skirt in Black | Loclaire
Recognisable by their muted colour palette, carried by intricate tailoring (think – bubble-like gathering, puffed sleeves, elegant draping and geometric cut-outs), Loclaire’s pieces range from the ‘elevated every day’, to elegant evening wear. Everything is made-to-order on a zero-waste model – which ensures your garment is not only net-positive but entirely unique. Two standout pieces for me are the Celeste Top in White and Plankton Skirt in Black; both examples of Loclaire’s expert tailoring.
Oosterom
Launched in 2021 by industry-renowned Nicole Hadfield, Oosterom is a sartorial project that seeks to materially embolden women, whilst honoring planetary integrity. In a field where feminine confidence has been commodified by profiteering, Oosterom offers a selection of honest, made-to-order garments that seek to serve their wearer in as many situations as possible.
Each piece is carefully tailored with the female form in mind – flattering lines, playful patterns, elegant draping and crinkling. I particularly love the Annalise Trouser and Scribble Bralette in black. The Annalise is a beautiful showcase of traditional, yet distinctly modern, craftsmanship; and the Scribble Bralette is an equally fun and versatile layering piece or standalone top for the summer.
Emma Jing
Emma Jing has since flown the coop to mingle amongst London’s best dressed, however I couldn’t exclude her from this list of my favourite Aotearoa designers – she is, after all, a Kiwi in origin (and we, as a nation, can’t refuse an opportunity to boast our exports). ‘Soft drama’, ‘romance’, ‘volume’ and ‘play’, are all words I view as evoking Emma Jing – along with ‘ruffles’, ‘ruching’ and ‘intricate stitching’.
Gemini Season, 2022 | Emma Jing and Taylor Groves
